We all have our flaws. They make us unique. And diamonds are no exception. Diamond clarity is a measure of the purity of the appearance of a stone; of whether it has any blemishes or flaws and if it does, how many there are and how visible they are. A completely flawless diamond is a rare wonder (most jewelers will never have seen one), and clarity can have a significant impact on price. Armed with some knowledge about the technical aspects of clarity grades, it's one of the 4 Cs that can help savvy shoppers save money. This is because you don't need a flawless diamond for a stone with stunning sparkle.
What actually is a diamond flaw?
Diamonds were formed over 3 billion years ago, deep within the upper mantle of the earth, the diamond crystals forming under the intense heat and pressure. Then millions of years ago, violent eruptions brought these already-formed diamonds to the surface, where we are able to mine for them. It's hardly surprising therefore that diamonds form with inherent birthmarks - the inclusions that we see as imperfections.
The flaws identified by gemologists during the grading process determine which grade the diamond falls into, and there are internal flaws, or 'inclusions' and external flaws, or 'blemishes' (though you'll often hear 'inclusion' used as a catch-all term).
There are numerous inclusion types identified during the grading process, and we'll put an in depth list together in a separate article.
Clarity Grades Explained
Clarity grades range from FL (flawless) to I3 (very obviously included). One of the most important things to note is that clarity grades are assigned when a diamond is examined under ten times magnification - the magnification of a standard jewelers loupe. Given that your bride-to-be doesn't walk around squinting through a magnifying glass 24/7, the most important thing is that you don't need to buy an FL diamond, but one that is "eye clean", i.e. one that doesn't have inclusions obvious to the naked eye.
Clarity Grade |
Visibility of Incusions |
|---|---|
| FL | Denotes a Flawless diamond.Fewer than 1% of all diamonds fit into this category. |
| IF | Denotes an Internally Flawless diamond. Small surface blemishes are visible under ten times magnification. |
| VVS | VVS diamonds (grades VVS1 and VVS2) are Very Very Slightly Included. Inclusions are difficult to see, even for a skilled grader, under ten times magnification. |
| VS | VS diamonds (grades VS1 and VS2) are Very Slightly Included. VS1 diamonds have inclusions which are hard to see under magnification, while VS2 diamonds have inclusions easily seen under ten times magnification. |
| SI | SI diamonds (grades SI1 ans SI2) are Slightly Included. SI1 diamonds are great value and despite having easily seen inclusions under 10x magnification, they can be clean to the naked eye (with the exception of Emerald and Asscher cut diamonds). |
| I | I diamonds (grades I1, I2 and I3) are Included. Inclusions are very obvious under magnification, obvious to the naked eye, and will affect brilliance. Vendors like Blue Nile do not sell diamonds in this category for engagement rings. |
So, what should I be looking for?
The bottom line is that it's perfectly OK for a diamond to have inclusions. What you're looking for is a diamond where those inclusions don't have too detrimental an affect on beauty. And you can't determine that without having a good look at the diamond. Inclusions affect how light bounces within the diamond; diamonds with fewer inclusions, or with small inclusions, will shine more brightly (presuming other factors are equal).
The size and location of the inclusion/s is key. A common inclusion type is crystals, which are sometimes whitish or clear, and sometimes colored or black. They appear as marks in the diamond, and whitish ones can be almost invisible whilst black ones can be very obvious. If the inclusion is in the center of the table of the diamond, it has more of an impact than one that is off to one side. Similarly, inclusions near the girdle of a diamond will have less impact than ones on the pavilion of a diamond, where the facets may reflect it, meaning you see it multiple times. Inclusions near the culet can reflect through the whole diamond.
The effect of carat weight and diamond shape
The visual impact of inclusions in a diamond will also vary depending on the size and shape of the diamond. As carat weight and diamond size increases, so too does the size of the table (the flat top of the diamond). The bigger the table, the more likely you are to see an inclusion. So whilst an SI diamond could present great value at around 1 carat or under, you'll need to go up the clarity scale to stay 'eye clean' for larger stones.
Similarly, the facets in different diamond shapes can make it more likely inclusions will be visible. Diamonds with step cuts and long, straight facets such as Emerald and Asscher cuts make inclusions more visible, so you need to look at VS grades or above on order to get an eye-clean diamond.
Brilliant cuts on the other hand, which are cut for light return and sparkle, are better at hiding inclusions and this is where you can go as low as SI1 (and very occasionally SI2) and still get an eye- clean diamond.
Ultimately it's down to personal preference, and budget, as to how far to push down the clarity grades. The 4 Cs all work together to determine price and once you've determined how you want to balance carat weight, color and clarity in your purchase the information we've given will help you buy a beautiful diamond. Just remember not to skimp too much on cut, the C with the greatest impact on beauty.
